Author Archives: jerry@bonsaihunk.us

Some recent bonsai work

Spending a few hours in the growing room and changed and updated a few of my figs.

  1. Ficus natalensis grown from a root cutting. Aluminum foil was used to protect the new root cutting from dehydration. Soon it will be removed.
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    Root cutting taken a few months back

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    Trunk shape achieved with wiring. Next step to form the branches and canopy to suit the trunk shape

     

     

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    Ficus virens has grown out of shape and needs a haircut

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    Ficus virens after trimming

How to thicken a branch

On this bonsai Ficus natalensis the lowest branch on the right side is not thick enough. Most often the lowest branch should be the thickest on the tree. In order to achieve proper thickness the branch is allowed to grow longer than the style dictates. Note the leaves are also larger than the rest of the tree which is being trimmed regularly.

In a year or two the branch will thicken because of its continued growth and then it will be appropriately shortened. The next step will be to continue the process of shaping the branch properly.

The area in red is allowed to grow without trimming to thicken the branch

The area in red is allowed to grow without trimming to thicken the branch

Slave branches

Slave branches are used to thicken a part of the trunk or branch that needs to be heavier. Slave branches are allowed to grow wildly without trimming and when the thickening has been achieved they are removed.

This Ficus natalensis has a slim trunk that would be improved by thickening it to introduce some more taper. The branch outlined in red was allowed to grow for a year or two to thicken the trunk.

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Slave branch on this Ficus natalensis to thicken the lower trunk of the tree

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Lower trunk has been thickened sufficiently so the slave branch has been removed

 

Aerial roots

This clump of Ficus virens/infectoria is seed grown and by being kept in a small container the individual trees now are fused and live on a common root system and lower trunk.

Of interest is the somewhat peculiar formation seen in the red outline. It is an aerial root that has existed for quite a few years. The aerial initially formed as a small thread-like structure but because the ambient humidity is low it has never reached the soil to form a pillar trunk. Each year when humidity is high new aerials try to sprout from it  but as the high humidity is only temporary the aerials never succeed in elongating and reaching to the ground. It gets thicker each year and the “ball” is enlarging year by year.

The appearance now is of a solid wood ball on which spikes that are aborted aerials jut out. Perhaps one day I will cut it off and see if I can root it as a cutting.

Ficus virens/infectoria showing the aborted aerial root growing off the trunk

Ficus virens/infectoria showing the aborted aerial root growing off the trunk

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Closer view of the aerial and the spikes growing from it

 

 


The definitive reference work on Ficus
for bonsai. The book is a softcover, 8 by 10 inch volume, with 144 color pages, containing detailed information for the beginner as well as the advanced hobbyist.

Creating a bonsai from a cutting

Taking cuttings is one of the best ways to start a bonsai tree. In this example a cutting of Ficus ‘Mystery’ was taken. It was a long straight piece of stem with several aerial roots. A cutting taken with aerial roots is almost guaranteed to root.

In this case the cutting rooted successfully and several years later the bonsai created was an attractive semi-cascade tree.

I take cuttings regularly and place them in bonsai soil and enclose the pot and cutting in a plastic bag to keep the humidity high. The bag is kept out of direct sunlight but in good bright light. Open the bat and water the soil as needed to keep the soil from getting dry but do not keep the soil totally full of water.

The bonsai created from section 4 of the photograph

The bonsai created from section 4 of the photograph below

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Section 4 with its aerial roots was taken as a cutting

 

Starting with less than wonderful material

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2011, at the start not looking too promising

This is a pretty typical plant. Ficus rubiginosa, that one can purchase in a nursery. It has had little or no training and seems unlikely to develop into a bonsai tree.

First step a chop to reduce the height

First step a chop to reduce the height

Allowing growth

Allowing growth

More growth, some trimming to shape

More growth, some trimming to shape, and wiring

2016, partially defoliated to encourage more twigging

2016, partially defoliated to encourage more twigging  

At last one begin to see the potential bonsai emerging from its rather humble beginnings.

Root-over-rock style

Ficus microcarpa placed on this rock about 12 years ago

Collected Ficus microcarpa placed on this rock about 12 years ago

Figs grow very well when placed on or grown over a rock. Root-over-rock designs are also very much admired by bonsai lovers.

Figs with their aggressive root systems easily tolerate being placed over a rock. The rock is covered with soil and the tree is allowed to grow vigorously to attach the roots to the rock. The soil is gradually removed over time to reveal the roots.

This Ficus microcarpa tree was collected with my bonsai friend David Fukumoto about 12 years ago and placed on the rock, roots initially covered by aluminum foil to protect the new roots. Over time the foil was removed and the roots were now air adapted.

 

Multi-trunk fig tree

An unusual style for fig trees is the multi-trunk style. One way to develop this style is to use a seedling Ficus and allow several trunks to form. Another way is to fuse several trunks together.

This is a Ficus microcarpa, about 12 years from seed. It spontaneously had several low branches as a seedling and these were developed into a multi-trunk style.

Ficus microcarpa from seed, age abou 12 years, height 8"

Ficus microcarpa from seed, age about 12 years, height 8″

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Nearly defoliated to show the nice structure developing

Moving an aerial root

Aerial roots are one of the very useful and impressive features of some fig trees. As with other design elements of a bonsai the aerials must augment the overall design scheme.

In this Ficus virens the aerial root crosses across the trunk and in addition it gives the appearance of a reverse taper to the trunk of this tree. It could be removed or a better option is to move it to the other side of the trunk and use it to improve the taper of the trunk.

The aerial crosses the trunk

The aerial crosses the trunk

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Closer view of the crossing aerial

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A chisel is used to separate the root from its adherence to the trunk

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The aerial is repositioned to the right side of the trunk

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Close view showing moss added to the base of the aerial to help promote new hair roots to form

The moved aerial is wrapped with sphagnum moss and placed into the soil. Within several weeks new hair roots will form on this aerial and make it a permanent fixture of the design.


The definitive reference work on Ficus
for bonsai. The book is a softcover, 8 by 10 inch volume, with 144 color pages, containing detailed information for the beginner as well as the advanced hobbyist.

 Click here for more information

Ficus cuttings, a great way to get more trees

Over the years I have taken many hundreds of cuttings. Most Ficus can be started easily from cuttings and even large size cuttings can be rooted with success.

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Ficus cutting about 8-9 years ago

This is a Ficus microcarpa cutting taken from one of my very large bonsai.

It was allowed to grow without trimming to recover strength and over time branches were selected to keep, other branches were removed and other branches were grafted into areas needing a branch. The bonsai after 9 years of training. Still not completed but it has come a long way from the start.

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Years later the same cutting is beginning to be an attractive bonsai

Consider rooting your extra cuttings to use for future bonsai.

 


The definitive reference work on Ficus
for bonsai. The book is a softcover, 8 by 10 inch volume, with 144 color pages, containing detailed information for the beginner as well as the advanced hobbyist.